Six weeks in the rainforests of Borneo

My journey through Malaysian Borneo began in Sabah, after travelling from Kuala Lumpur, with a very different challenge waiting for me: Mount Kinabalu.

I had two days to climb the mountain, but heavy rain made the ascent considerably more difficult. The trails became slippery and demanding, and on the second day we left at around 2 a.m. for the final ascent towards the summit, climbing another 600 metres in darkness. At several sections, ropes were needed to make the climb. Doing this at night is a completely different experience from climbing during daylight, particularly for someone like me who suffers from vertigo. The darkness removes the sense of depth, but somehow makes every step feel even more exposed.

The mountain was only the beginning. Over the following six weeks I travelled extensively through Malaysian Borneo, visiting many of its national parks, wildlife reserves and protected areas. The journey took me deep into rainforests, along rivers and into places where the natural environment still dominates everyday life.

My guide throughout much of this journey was James Chew, a passionate nature lover with an extraordinary knowledge of the wildlife and forests of Borneo. James had a particular love for his jeep, but his greatest asset was his patience and his ability to understand what was happening around us. He knew where to look, when to wait and, perhaps most importantly, what I was looking for as a photographer.

Some of the most memorable experiences came along the Kinabatangan River. Moving slowly by boat through the rainforest gave me a completely different perspective on wildlife. We encountered elephants crossing the river and spent long periods searching the surrounding forest for its inhabitants. The river itself became part of the experience, particularly in the early morning when the first light began to transform the landscape.

I also visited places such as Sepilok, Gomantong Caves, Matang and Sarawak, together with other protected areas throughout Malaysian Borneo. The Gomantong Caves were unforgettable for another reason. The enormous accumulation of guano produced a smell so powerful that it was almost unbearable. Yet even here, nature revealed an extraordinary ecosystem, reminding me that wildlife photography is not always about comfort or beautiful surroundings.

The wildlife encounters were varied and often rewarding. Orangutans and hornbills were among the species I was fortunate enough to photograph, while other encounters remained elusive. The clouded leopard, one of Borneo's most mysterious predators, was a particular challenge. We even searched for it at night, but despite the effort and patience, it remained out of reach. That is also part of wildlife photography: some of the animals you travel furthest to find are the ones that never appear in front of the camera.

Some of my favourite moments, however, were not necessarily encounters with a particular animal. Early mornings at Menara Kayangan, the Tower of Heaven, offered spectacular views as the first light appeared over the rainforest. After days of travelling, searching and waiting, there was something deeply rewarding about simply standing still and watching the jungle slowly emerge from the darkness.

Borneo taught me once again how important a good guide can be. James's patience, knowledge and understanding of the natural world became an invaluable part of my photographic journey. A photographer may carry the equipment and press the shutter, but many of the opportunities begin with someone who knows the forest well enough to recognise what is about to happen.

Six weeks in Borneo were not simply a search for photographs. They were an immersion in rainforest, rivers, mountains, wildlife, difficult conditions and long periods of waiting. Looking back, the photographs are only part of what remains. The sounds, smells, uncertainty, exhaustion and the people who shared those experiences with me are equally part of the memory.

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