Seasons, macaques and a changing wilderness

Thanks to long-standing business relationships with Japanese clients, I have had the privilege of returning to Japan regularly. What began as professional travel gradually developed into a much more personal connection with the country's landscapes, seasons and wildlife.

I was particularly drawn to the mountains, forests and traditional rural scenery of Nagano, always carrying my camera in search of atmosphere, light and fleeting moments.

One place that repeatedly brought me back was Jigokudani Monkey Park. Visiting in different seasons revealed a constantly changing landscape, from deep winter snow surrounding the famous Japanese macaques in the hot springs to the colours and softer light of spring and autumn.

Yet returning over the years also showed me another side of wildlife photography. The extraordinary popularity of the macaques has transformed the experience. During my earlier visits, perhaps ten years ago, there was considerably more space and time to observe the animals. The macaques were accustomed to people, but the atmosphere remained relatively calm.

Today, photographing them around the hot springs can feel almost like a lottery. Hundreds of photographers may gather around the limited space, each hoping to obtain a clear view or position close to the animals. During my most recent visit, I noticed a very different behaviour. Some macaques appeared increasingly agitated and aggressive, particularly around the hot-spring area where the available space for the animals becomes severely restricted by the presence of people.

It made me reflect on an uncomfortable reality of wildlife photography: our desire to observe and photograph nature can itself become part of the pressure placed upon it.

Japan has therefore given me more than beautiful photographs. Returning over many years has allowed me to witness change, in the seasons, in the landscape, in the animals and in the relationship between wildlife and the people who come to see it.

For me, that is also part of documenting nature honestly: not only preserving the beautiful moments, but noticing how the circumstances surrounding them evolve.

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